I haven’t done a whole lot of custom mechanical
keyboard builds in my time, but one type I
have yet to build is a full sized, which in
the common world is a regularly sized keyboard
that you see everywhere.
Rare breed in the custom world though, with
most being more compact for various reasons.
So today we will build the TX108se from TX
Keyboards from South Korea.
The TX108se ran late last year, and was fulfilled
earlier this year.
And these are the guys who make the TX keyboard
bags as well that I showed in a previous build
vid.
Pretty nice.
Comes with nice zippers, and it comes with
a bunch of foam to fit whatever board.
Anyway, let’s take it apart to have a closer
look.
There’s 12 hex screws on the bottom, which
keeps the two halves together.
And then we have the brass weight in the bottom
of the keyboard, and that’s held in by some
countersunk Phillips head screws.
Super heavy by the way.
And it’s a typical top mount design, as
we see on most customs.
So as we can see, the plate and therefore
PCB and switches, are mounted to the top aluminium
piece.
And that just creates a more even typing experience.
Whereas a more typical design would be tray
mount, where the mounting points would be
on the bottom, and therefore there will be
some hard and soft spots because of those
mounting points.
Alrighty, so first we have the mounting plate,
which is made from 1.5mm brass.
Brass being heavier than the usual aluminium,
this comes in at 324g, so yeh, pretty heavy.
So for reference, that’s more than half
of the Ducky One 2 Mini.
Here’s the top aluminium piece.
Lots of the screw holes.
So as seen before, the outer set of holes
is for attaching the bottom case, and the
inside set for the mounting plate.
Between the top and bottom we have this thin
polycarbonate piece.
It’s CNC’d as well, so we’ll see later,
but it is a bit rough around the edge.
Said bottom case was tough to carry for the
shot.
Again, CNC’d aluminium.
Finish on the inside is close to perfect,
and around the screw holes as well.
This is usually where you do see some defects,
but all good around here.
Full sized aluminium board is heavy enough,
but just because, there is a brass weight
which comes in at a hefty 1.4kg.
That’s heavier than pretty much all typical
prebuilt mechs that you can buy at a store
or whatever.
They’ve gone for this ribbed design.
Finish looks pretty clean, but yeh you can
see the machining marks and stuff.
But this is all covered anyway, and you only
see the ribs themselves from the outside.
Here’s the PCB, which supports MX style
keyswitches.
And it does also support through hole LEDs,
which we won’t be doing.
For the stabs, we have a bit of a treat.
The stabiliser scene has been quite confusing
as of late, and still is.
With GMK screw ins supposedly being retooled
and not being as good.
And yeh, Durock stabs is what I have today.
Just a brief look at them.
They are pre clipped, or rather they don’t
have the little legs.
The wires do clip in more firmly though, so
less chance of them popping out.
And putting these in were a bit harder than
usual, because the thread is metal, and is
bigger than usual.
So I had to use more force to get it in
the hole.
Now to soldering.
I personally use a Hakko FX888D.
But you can easily use something cheaper.
And I use .56mm solder, which is pretty thin,
but you can go thicker.
For the switches we have Gateron Yellows,
which are a medium weight linear switch, and
these are lubed by Greg.
It’s worth taking your time with soldering,
and making sure each joint is good.
You want a nice shiny concave joint.
Sometimes I put a bit more, but that’s fine
as long as you don’t go too heavy.
But yeh, it really is an easy skill to learn,
and it’s just really useful for other stuff
as well.
Because the outside of the plate doesn’t
actually touch the sides of the case, there
is a bit of wiggle room.
So I had to line it up by eye.
And then trying to line up the polycarbonate
piece was a little tough as well, because
it isn’t flush with the rest of the case,
and again, there’s wiggle room.
So that took a bit of moving around.
And uh yeh, it’s a 108 key keyboard, 109
in this case, so filling up the whole thing
was a bit of a challenge.
And here it is.
The heaviest keyboard I’ve built on the
channel so far coming in at about 4.3kg.
For comparison, this Varmilo which has a steel
mounting plate is 3 kilograms lighter, and
that’s already heavy for most people.
It looks good.
On top, it’s clean, just a classic look,
but with rounded corners and edges giving
it a pretty soft look.
There’s the TX branding above the arrow
keys which do light up.
And yeh, our lighting was flickering, so I’ve
kept it off for now until we can get it fixed.
And the same goes for the sideglow.
I did have a few LEDs flickering.
But regardless of that, it’s not the best
look in my opinion.
These are side facing SMD LEDs which are right
on the edge of the PCB.
And without proper diffusion and just the
spacing of them, you get this effect which
just doesn’t look good to me.
And to be honest it looks way better with
the lights off.
The plastic piece is inset just that little
bit as well, so it’s not flush with the
aluminium.
Don’t know how to feel about that.
But the whole sideglow thing just doesn’t
work for board.
The other unique part are the I guess grips,
or finger holes.
Polarising design.
When I first saw them in drawings, I didn’t
like them because they are quite jarring,
and really do stand out.
In real life, I think they look fine.
Still do look quite aggressive, and isn’t
the cleanest design, but they work like a
charm.
And you do need them to move this keyboard
around.
On the bottom we see the brass weight peeking
through.
No branding or anything on the weight.
Instead it’s engraved above it on the aluminium.
Also the anodisation is stunning on this keyboard.
Flawless, looks even.
Colours match nicely.
And it has a bit of a soft touch to it, being
more matte, rather than metallic.
Typing experience is delicious.
Lubed Gateron Yellows are some of the best
value linear switches you can make.
Nice and smooth, which pairs perfectly with
the top mount design and brass plate.
Bottom out is softened a bit by the lube,
and it feels tight and dense.
The slight disappointment are the stabs.
Durock stabs have been kinda hyped, but in
this particular build, with the usual band
aid and lube job that I do, they’re not
great.
I haven’t further attempted to fix them
up yet, just so I can kind of compare them
to other builds I’ve done.
But yeh, you hear that rattle on nearly all
the stabilised keys.
Not sure if it’s just this board in particular.
I’ve heard really good things about them.
But right now, for this particular build.
They’re not great, and my past GMK pre-retooled
stabs are better.
Again, just in this case.
It was actually interesting using a full sized
keyboard again, because it has been a while
to be honest.
We do have the 4 extra keys in the corner.
The keycaps don’t represent what they are,
it’s just really all I had in that profile.
And we have stepped caps lock, just a typical
bottom row, and split backspace for this configuration.
Interestingly, they do use their own software
for this which was a little difficult to find.
And here you can program the keys and all
that.
As well as play with the lighting.
Unfortunately I didn’t see a simple off
option, so I just lowered the brightness all
the way down.
Overall, a really enjoyable build.
I love getting a chance to build all these
different kind of keyboards.
As I said before, this is the heaviest one
I’ve built so far.
There’s a few unique design traits which
I like to see.
It is just a keyboard after all, and you don’t
want them to all look the same.
I think the sideglow and polycarbonate piece
don’t really fit the board, but I just choose
to ignore it.
But other than that, I really like this board.
TX keyboards have quite a few boards, and
some different layouts which look really cool.
I’ll leave a link in the description if
you want to check it out, but beware, these
are custom mechanical keyboards.

Building a FULL SIZED Custom Mechanical Keyboard – TX108se
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49 thoughts on “Building a FULL SIZED Custom Mechanical Keyboard – TX108se

  • November 9, 2019 at 7:02 pm
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    5th like btw sub to meh ples and 2nd comment oh yea

    Reply
  • November 9, 2019 at 7:05 pm
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    Can you review the TKL h87a PCB please?

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:05 pm
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    I see twice

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:11 pm
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    6 Comment! Hello!

    Reply
  • November 9, 2019 at 7:12 pm
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    Any tips on a gaming keyboard im from sweden so need the letters äöå on the keyboard but maybe like 65% keyboard?

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:21 pm
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    Heavy boye

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:24 pm
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    ship me a keyboard cause why not

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:26 pm
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    Nice! I wonder how much it hurts to wack someone with it, lol

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:30 pm
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    borwser

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:43 pm
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    Could u please do a 60% keyboard build with a £100 budget

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:51 pm
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    Wonderful build, I plan to build something similar eventually. Really want to try zealios, preferably in an aluminum case, but I'll settle for plastic.
    6:34 I am curious, is the enter switch slightly crooked? "It appears so", said my over compulsive trait.

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:54 pm
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    Can you recommend the melody96? I want to build it soon 🙂

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:54 pm
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    i like your vids but you need some keyboards with media keys..the seem overlooked..

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  • November 9, 2019 at 7:54 pm
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    Bummer that the stabs aren't that great, do you plan though to give the C3 stabs a try? if they're play-free, they should be pretty smooth with their POM housing.

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:00 pm
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    thanks greg

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:24 pm
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    "I had to use more force to get it in the hole."

    Giggity giggity

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:31 pm
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    I thought AR87 is the heaviest. Then I see this video

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:40 pm
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    I like the 1800 layout like on the BOK.CP

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:41 pm
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    What issues do GMK stabs have now? I'm close to having another build and still need to buy stabs. Should I avoid GMK for now?

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:55 pm
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    Cool, but those 3 floating fingers in the thumbnail though

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  • November 9, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    The side glow is really horrendous. Not sure how that passed QC.

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  • November 9, 2019 at 9:20 pm
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    I’d love to see you try out the Butterstick 20% keyboard. It supports a full QWERTY layout 🙂

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  • November 9, 2019 at 9:23 pm
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    Hmm yes the best thing i ever did

    Reply
  • November 9, 2019 at 9:40 pm
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    6:07 That second pin wasn't soldered on the Home key. At 6:15 it's still not soldered. 7:12 still not soldered.

    It's not an important key, I just wanted to make you aware that it's not fully soldered.

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  • November 9, 2019 at 9:45 pm
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    Please bring this to the Mech Keyboard Meetup!

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  • November 9, 2019 at 9:47 pm
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    That's a heavy boy

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  • November 9, 2019 at 9:49 pm
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    100% likes nice

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  • November 9, 2019 at 10:05 pm
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    now I can work out and game at the same time

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  • November 9, 2019 at 10:22 pm
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    first dislike because of gay music lol. lol

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  • November 9, 2019 at 10:26 pm
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    I dont get the point: you can only type on one.. why building 100000 keyboards?

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  • November 9, 2019 at 10:35 pm
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    Jesus christ what a thick boy

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  • November 9, 2019 at 10:53 pm
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    Ooo I see you got yourself a nice setup upgrade, looks good man 🙂

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  • November 9, 2019 at 11:00 pm
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    Imagine spending over 400 bucks on a case + PCB combo, only for you to get a mini USB port on it lmao

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  • November 9, 2019 at 11:15 pm
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    Love 108's, use a tray so my needed numpad is better attached, plus having an easy mute for the schizo volume variance of media is a big plus.

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  • November 9, 2019 at 11:40 pm
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    6:55 porn

    Reply
  • November 9, 2019 at 11:43 pm
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    those countersunk screws are nuts

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  • November 10, 2019 at 12:39 am
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    Is that GMK MoDo?

    Reply
  • November 10, 2019 at 2:01 am
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    Ghibli! ❤

    Reply
  • November 10, 2019 at 2:07 am
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    awesome build. you ever gonna do a through-hole kit type build? like a plaid ortho, gingham60 or discipline65?

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  • November 10, 2019 at 2:11 am
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    Ty Jono

    Reply
  • November 10, 2019 at 2:32 am
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    3:32 GASP You're using something made by Durock!? You're supporting fake counterfeits reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
    Seriously though, people need to get off their high horses on the Stealios controversy. These companies would never have tried counterfeiting Zeal switches if they weren't so overpriced in the first place. That people never noticed until Zeal himself had to call it out, should've taught the community that they're paying way too much for them the whole time. People just basically threw money at Zeal, so little wonder that either the retailer or the factory would try to cash in on those margins.

    Reply
  • November 10, 2019 at 2:38 am
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    2:02 how do you even do that

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  • November 10, 2019 at 2:43 am
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    My iKBC MF108 is suddenly too lightweight for my needs.

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  • November 10, 2019 at 3:20 am
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    The best thing you ever did :))

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  • November 10, 2019 at 4:21 am
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    What stabs were those again?

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  • November 10, 2019 at 5:02 am
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    Looking at you soldering makes me wonder: why the board doesn't burn when you touch it with the soldering tool? Isn't it pcb and isn't pcb a plastic?

    Reply
  • November 10, 2019 at 6:48 am
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    Now with optical switches emerging being much smoother, is it still worth getting the likes of varmilo or leopold with cherry mx these days?

    Reply

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